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Post by shizznizz980 on Aug 19, 2010 22:42:04 GMT -5
I did a 2.3 t swap on my mustang still have stock 4cyl fuel pump and plugs and still have to get a boost controller, I finally got it running and tried to set the timing with the gun and followed all the instructions on the spout but it doesnt advance or retard and another thing I noticed is that when i turn it on the fuel pump and cooling fan stay running constantly
any help would greatly be appreciated thanks all here is a video of the car running
in the video the car is idling at 2k idk why and when i disconnect the iac it dies and if i start it back up with the iac disconnected it idles fine
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2010 14:20:21 GMT -5
Typically it means there are a couple mistakes in the wiring changes you made during the swap. The fan kicks on whenever the fan wire is grounded (or the fan temp switch is bad). The fuel pump and fan both have relays inside the IRCM module (big black box on the passenger side strut tower) so often times if there is a wiring mistake for those items, you'll hear the relay inside that box buzzing when the key is on.
I'd verify that the spout connector actually makes a connection electrically (verify with a multimeter, not only visually) when it is plugged in. Sometimes either the pins pop out of the connector when plugged in or there is a break in the wire that makes it think the spout is always unplugged.
It sounds like it's got a miss in the vid but with the timing not advancing right now it's hard to gain much info from the video just yet. I wouldn't worry about the IAC problems until you fix the timing problems as proper timing will change the idle.
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Post by shizznizz980 on Aug 21, 2010 15:30:08 GMT -5
sounds good I will look into all that stuff...its a project I know it takes time for it to be running perfect I'm just glad ive gotten this far. Now I got a question that black box does it have to be mounted? because I just have it laying by the firewall behind the intercooler I couldnt fit it on the bracket because of the intercooler in the way. I will deff relook at the spout issue I mean all the other wiring I made sure I followed your directions step by step especially with the computer repinning.
thanks,
Jan
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2010 18:14:51 GMT -5
I'm not positive whether the IRCM grounds through the chassis or not, I'd have to look at the wiring diagrams.
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Post by shizznizz980 on Aug 21, 2010 19:09:05 GMT -5
sounds good thanks man
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Post by shizznizz980 on Aug 24, 2010 21:32:03 GMT -5
Hey hows it going so I check my wiring again and found that I still had the spout in the factory location for the NA 4cyl motor so I switched it to where the turbocoupe would have it......I pulled it out and fired her up and started setting my base timing to 10 degrees and put the spout back in and nothing the car didnt change how it was running ......my fan and pump are still constantly on should I try to install a known good computer?
thanks
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Post by Stinger on Aug 24, 2010 23:05:10 GMT -5
In my first post I said if there were relay wiring issues "you'll hear the relay inside that box buzzing when the key is on." Do you hear such a thing?
Swapping in another ecu won't hurt, though I don't think it's the issue.
It doesn't sound like you ever actually checked for a proper spout connection with a multimeter.
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Post by shizznizz980 on Aug 24, 2010 23:14:36 GMT -5
oh ya forgot about the black box nope it isn't buzzing.... right now I have the car running with the IAC unplugged and when I plug it in the car shoots straight to 2k rpms???
appreciate your help if it wasnt for the write up I would of never done this project you have set up a really nice website
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Post by Stinger on Aug 25, 2010 0:51:04 GMT -5
You need to do the base idle reset procedure from our Misc Tech Articles page on the site. Also do the TPS procedure after you've set base idle and cleaned the IAC.
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Post by airmenad21 on Aug 29, 2010 1:57:26 GMT -5
Sounds like the IRCM is bad
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Post by oneowner88lx on Aug 29, 2010 7:34:41 GMT -5
I would pull codes too and see what comes up.
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Post by shizznizz980 on Sept 6, 2010 16:53:43 GMT -5
do I need a scanner to pull the codes on this Ive heard of people using a paper clip how do i go about this?
thanks,
Jan
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Post by Stinger on Sept 6, 2010 22:41:08 GMT -5
A scanner is only $20 and comes with a book that explains what the codes mean, instructions, the ability to clear memory codes, etc. A paper clip will allow you to read codes, you just jumper between two pins in the test port. Not sure which two off the top of my head, google knows I'm sure though.
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Post by shizznizz980 on Sept 8, 2010 22:01:53 GMT -5
So using the stock 4cyl fuel pump wont give me any issues?
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Post by Stinger on Sept 8, 2010 22:47:47 GMT -5
Not until you exceed the fuel requirements of that fuel pump. In other words, it should be fine at idle/cruise and up to 10psi or so.
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