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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 0:09:18 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jul 31, 2009 0:09:18 GMT -5
You sure the injectors are wired correctly? Hydrolocking the engine is a good way to crack the block, bend rods, ruin bearings, blow headgaskets, etc.
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 0:51:40 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Jul 31, 2009 0:51:40 GMT -5
Yep, that's why I have not been cranking it over until I get it fixed. I used the wiring harness from the old engine so I don't see where the wiring could have changed. I am going to test the injectors where they plug into the harness. Is there anything I could have overlooked?
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 3:14:41 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jul 31, 2009 3:14:41 GMT -5
If the wiring is correct, I would highly doubt all 4 injectors would fail at the same time (if you can verify all 4 are doing it). If that's the case, I'd point to the ECU I suppose.
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 11:36:18 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Jul 31, 2009 11:36:18 GMT -5
What are the inputs that control the injectors? The 12v crank sensing wire is that one?
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 11:42:39 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jul 31, 2009 11:42:39 GMT -5
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 14:04:35 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Jul 31, 2009 14:04:35 GMT -5
Ok. From looking at the diagrams. I have power coming from pin 24 in the ircm which goes to all four injectors. The computer is suppling ground so all of my injectors are staying open. What controls that circut? Is there a senser that tells the computer when to supply ground? Maybe something that senses the engine cranking or running? Thanks for all the help
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 18:07:45 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jul 31, 2009 18:07:45 GMT -5
It's not a sensor (other than pip saying it's running), I'd say if they are truly staying open the ecu is shot?
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 18:45:28 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Jul 31, 2009 18:45:28 GMT -5
Could the tfi module have screwed up. I spent a little to much on the computer. It still has all of the ford seals intact. I would hope that isn't it but I think it would be cheaper to replace the tfi first. Does that sound like a reasonable idea or am I just trying to keep this computer alive?
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 18:52:22 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jul 31, 2009 18:52:22 GMT -5
The curious part is it outputs codes which normally indicates the ecu is ok. I've never actually heard of this issue, nor would I anticipate a TFI causing it. You should use a 12v test light to test what you are getting at the injectors when key off, key on, and cranking on both wires.
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 20:44:13 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Jul 31, 2009 20:44:13 GMT -5
I have full voltage at the injectors when in start and run position. The computer wires constantly supply ground. I turned the car off and used a volt meter to go from the positive battery cable to one of the computer injector controls. It read 9.60v but battery voltage is 12.43v. The other wire that supply the other two injectors with ground had no ground. Also I don't know If it matters but I unpluged the tfi connector and read 10v at the pip wire
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Rich
Jul 31, 2009 23:35:52 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Jul 31, 2009 23:35:52 GMT -5
Is the signal pulsing when running/cranking?
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Rich
Aug 1, 2009 10:02:17 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Aug 1, 2009 10:02:17 GMT -5
It is a contstand 12v
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Rich
Aug 1, 2009 12:19:21 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Aug 1, 2009 12:19:21 GMT -5
At the distributor the bottom wire in the conector is a ground correct? When going from that pin to the negative on the battery I get 10.5v and when the key is off it now has ground. Something is not right.
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Rich
Aug 2, 2009 17:07:33 GMT -5
Post by nmanville on Aug 2, 2009 17:07:33 GMT -5
I think the computer is shot. All of the problems I am having point to that and the check engine light is only on when I put the key in the crank position. How do you feel about the remanufactured computers? Are they ok or not?
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Rich
Aug 2, 2009 18:18:19 GMT -5
Post by Stinger on Aug 2, 2009 18:18:19 GMT -5
Pin out for regular TFI modules top to bottom when installed: 1 PIP 2 SPOUT 3 Start 4 TFI Power 5 IDM (goes to Coil- and to ECU through 22kOhm resistor) 6 Ignition Ground
My wire colors in the same order as above are: dark blue - PIP yellow/green - spout, 12v red/blue - 10v when cranking, .1v not cranking white/blue - 10v when cranking, 12v not cranking green/yellow - neg coil, tach, pin 4 ecu black/orange - ground
You sure all of the ignition wiring is correct?
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