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Post by Stinger on Aug 19, 2009 13:44:53 GMT -5
Plug wires are out of order or timing (cam timing) is still wrong.
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Post by nmanville on Aug 19, 2009 16:42:43 GMT -5
Two of the plug wires were bad. I feal pretty dumb for not checking that. I had some replacements but the arent motorsports. It still breaks up at high rpm. The timing does not advance and it has a new TFI module on it.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 19, 2009 17:35:49 GMT -5
Your spout isn't getting a good connection, see if the pins have pushed out of the plug or something.
You don't need motorsport wires, stock motorcraft wires work fine for 350+hp.
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Post by nmanville on Aug 20, 2009 14:44:10 GMT -5
The pins are fine and the wire is not broken.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 20, 2009 16:27:54 GMT -5
Did you do an ohms test to verify it is getting a connection?
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Post by nmanville on Aug 20, 2009 23:52:03 GMT -5
Yes and I have a connection. Here's a weird question does it have some kind of motor in the distributor that advances the timing or how does it advance?
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2009 9:38:24 GMT -5
The distributor says where the engine is, the ecu measures the rpm and calculates how much to delay the spark before sending the signal to spark. It changes this "delay" to advance/retard timing.
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Post by nmanville on Aug 21, 2009 12:03:04 GMT -5
I was just checking over all of my wiring and i noticed that when i did the MAF to VAF swap the red wire from the MAF harness is going to the brown/white wire on the baro. I checked voltage and i have a full 12v not 5v. The only reson i checked this is because of the other post about the spout not advancing or retarding timing. are there any other 5v refrence wires in the car?
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2009 13:04:03 GMT -5
The baro is a 5v wire. You either didn't use the baro or you used the 12v source from the maf instead of the proper wire.
Disconnect the wire running from vam to baro and then check the voltage at the baro wire, it will be 5v. If it's not, it's not the BARO. If it's 5v, then check the voltage at the wire you just disconnected (that ran from vam to baro before you unhooked it). It should be 0v when unplugged.
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Post by nmanville on Aug 21, 2009 13:37:05 GMT -5
i redid the wiring. For some reason i had the red wire from the MAF going directly to the baro. the baro had a 12v refrence and the VAF had none. Could this have damaged my computer? If not i am out of ideas. Any suggestions?
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Post by nmanville on Aug 21, 2009 14:13:36 GMT -5
I left the battery unplugged for i little while and now the car sounds great in neutral but around 3000 rpm in grear it starts missing. I also changed the timing. the mark sits around 1 o'clock on the crank.
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2009 17:01:07 GMT -5
Do you not have timing marks? I don't know why you would say it's at "1 o'clock" instead of saying what the actual timing number is otherwise? 1 o'clock tells me nothing, especially without knowing whether you mean with the spout in or spout out, at idle, at 3000 rpm, etc.
I have no idea if it damaged the ecu. You can scan for codes to see though. Did you verify that the vam now has 5v on one wire and sweeps 0-5v (or 1-4.5v) when the vam door is moved from closed to open?
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Post by nmanville on Aug 21, 2009 17:18:07 GMT -5
The VAM is fine but the timing is above the marks themselves so i dont know how many digrees that is. It is idleing at 1000 rpm and sounds great and revs all the way up with no problem in neutral but in gear it starts to backfire around 3500 rpm and the turbo does not produce any boost at all. There are only the standard codes for egr and so on
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Post by Stinger on Aug 21, 2009 17:54:04 GMT -5
OK, so remove the spout and then tell me what the timing is. If it's not 10 degrees BTDC then adjust it until it is, then plug the spout back in and make sure it advances back to 30 degrees or more when plugged in.
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Post by nmanville on Aug 22, 2009 8:33:17 GMT -5
I haven't been able to work on the car yet but I was just wandering if this engine is what some people call boost dependant?
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