How To Fix PCV System So Engine Doesn't Blow Oil

[Stinger]

That's your problem. The filter inlet needs to be larger than the combined size of the 5/8" block vent and the 3/8" valve cover vent because that air your venting has to escape freely. I'd suggest something at least 1" at the absolute minimum. Otherwise, it restricts flow out of the catch can and pressure builds up in the can, then it allows a pressure increase in the crankcase and valve cover.

[benc502]

Thanks. Will post results

[benc502]

I enlarged the hole and put a 1 1/2 inch breather/filter on the catch can. Problem solved.
Thanks you
I was tired of smelling like oil all day lol

[Stinger]

Good to hear it is functioning properly now.

[timmer35]

I'm doing this set up and wonder if you think it would be ok to put a 3/4 fitting in where the breather on the valve cover is and T it into the 1 inch line that comes over from the crankcase breather? Will that over load the can?( got the same one you mentioned). Or should I leave the breather cap in? Thinking I may have excess oil coming out of the valve cover without the breather. Thanks for your thoughts.

[Stinger]

You wouldn't overload the can but there isn't any reason it should be necessary. There is a baffle inside the valve cover that should prevent oil that is slinging off the cam/valvetrain from going into the vent. The factory valve cover breather is designed to take the oil mist out of the air before it exits the engine completely so you will find more oil in the catch can without the stock breather.

[timmer35]

My baffle, oil separator that comes out of the crankcase is loose. Like to get it tight, anyone have a line where I can get a new one? Or is there something I can do with the one I have to make it work? ( spread solder?) Can't weld it. Or can I find something that fits in there to make it tight and not have the baffle? I'm putting in the system that is discussed here in this thread. I don't think oil will travel up hill so much that leaving the baffle out would be a problem, not sure. Any thoughts? I have a 3/4 plastic 90 bend piece that fits really tight, think it would work? I'm skepical of that.

[turbopony92]

I've heard of people tapping it, but then you have the problem of removing shavings.

Sent from my ADR6400L using proboards

[Stinger]

I'm not sure about them being available new (pretty sure they aren't). I'd just look at getting a used one that is in better shape, or expand the one you have now. You could even clean it and the block and use high temp RTV or JB Weld to hold it in place.

Oil doesn't travel uphill very well but oil mist (which the crankcase is filled with) most certainly will.

[timmer35]

Thanks, I might try to see if solder sticks to it then sand it down to fit. If it don't stick well I like the J B idea. It's not like it's blasting oil all over just wanna seal er up good as long as I'm in there.

[gpz11]

So could the catch can be installed low in the engine bay or should it be even with the valve cover? Does it matter?

Has anyone installed this set up in a Merkur?

[Stinger]

It can be low. It doesn't matter what 2.3T car it is used in, the function and design is the same.

[timmer35]

I got this system on, got a question. I don't know if it's condensation and or blow by but what I get when drained is watery like with a slight gassy, turpentine like smell. It is cold here, still below freezing in the mornings. The motor only has about 50,000 on fresh rebuild, I don't really hammer on it much, you know once in a while to make sure she's running right. Daily driver once every couple days I'll get into it through 3-4 gears. Is this the norm? Any thoughts?

[Stinger]

Yes, that's normal. That's why I think the people who run the drain back into the pan are crazy...you couldn't pay me to put that crap back in the engine.

[gpz11]

Well, I just finished up getting my catch can installed. Not as much room in a XR as in a Mustang. I had to put the can down near the bottom of the engine bay.